What is Light Braker Controler ?

Correct correction of light level deviation when not setting X, Y and Z individually. The light will not travel across the sky as such, but will go straight to the telescope/meter. The mirror does not move backwards at all, the light just goes straight. I built my adjustment knob for the magnetometer type of x-y error compensation, and it seems to work very well. You can also read in the Greek and English manual how to adjust it, and adjust the combined value of x-y correction and the mirror correction. After all, there is no point in fixing one problem if you will cause a second problem due to some other error, and it's just better to check the settings and adjust them from time to time. It's all in the ken! In our case, the 2 functions should be a common value, and we can set the X and Y for our current position.

How do you know if your Sunshield is well sealed ?

No Sunshield ? How do you shield yourself ?

It is possible to shield yourself with a sunscreen when outdoors. However, I suggest you do not, unless you are sure you have a good Sunshield :

Because

This is a very important question. If the inner seals on the Sunshield are not well adhered to the outer, the glass won't do its job of blocking out the light, the high side where the Sun is brightest (within the lens of the telescope) will be very bright and the low side will be very dark.

This causes a blind spot at the telescope, and the image of the Sun is never really there, you have to readjust the adjustment screws to get it into the right place again.

How do you inspect the Sunshield (solbar and optional lops in)?

In this case, you need to look at your telescope on a dark sky night and see how it looks on the night sky. If it's well shielded, then you can't see it at all. If there are 'blind spots' in the Sunshield, or there is a large blind spot, or it's just not dark enough, or too dark, you need to take your Solbar out and lop off the corner of the Sunshield. You should only be doing this for the specific Sunshield that you are currently using, as different Sunshields might be better for different projects. If you can't lop it off, it's not a good enough Sunshield. I've had good success with a video and the flexible spacers on the lop-off the Sunshield that I use when I'm working with telescopes and lenses at 30-40cm. This also helps to show the level of the instrument if you have a spotting scope at the other end.

There are various other things that you might want to try, and it's always a good idea to make sure that the two vent holes in the solbar are indeed making contact with the Sunshield, and that the insulation covers on both sides of the Sunshield are also sealing on the opposite side of the Sunshield.

How do you connect the Sunshield and the other parts?

For those Solbars which are open on both sides, you should look at the Sunshield and see if it's securely seated on the cable, and if the on/off switch (clicked) is making contact with the box itself. If so, you should be all set! If not, you should look at the shielding, and the fittings, and see if you can get them to connect. Some shields are very tricky and need drilling, other shields can be slipped over, and the fitting itself is really very secure.

If your Sunshield doesn't fit over the entire tube, you can, by putting another Sunshield on top, and fitting it over the top. The sizing on the top Sunshield is to fit on top of the entire tube. One thing to be careful of is the back surface of the Sunshield, there are two other parts, the flange and the back plate, these are very important. The flange is the straight bit you hold onto at the back end of the Sunshield, this will protect the bulb from damage, and also the the back plate, which is the metal cover you sit on, this needs to sit on top of the back of the Sunshield, there should be no gap anywhere between the metal cover and the back plate.